I did some checking before I started this story.
I checked to see if
an Albuquerque nightclub I went to 30 years ago was still around.
Nope.
Midnight Rodeo was
torn down recently.
I don’t believe I’m
wrong in saying Midnight Rodeo was a chain of country-themed nightclubs around
The Golden West. If not there were a
bunch of nightclubs across The Great American Southwest with the same name in
Tulsa, Amarillo, Lubbock, San Angelo, San Antonio, Houston, Austin and
Albuquerque.
I was new to the
Duke City…I had a groovy pad…a studio apartment in an old motel on the city’s
notorious Central Avenue. It wasn’t half
bad for $200 a month…it was right across the street from a Smith’s Supermarket
and a movie theater cineplex.
I had a job running
heavy equipment at a construction project.
Now it was time to
find a girlfriend.
So where else does a
guy find a girlfriend than at nightclub and the club that seemed like just the
place was Midnight Rodeo where Country music was the big thing.
There was another
popular club in town called Caravan East, about 30 blocks down the street from
me on Central…but the guys on the construction job said it was basically a club
for old farts.
Yep, Midnight Rodeo
was where I needed to go.
So one October night
I threw on my jeans, button-down collar shirt, grabbed a wad of cash, my Moose
River camping hat modified with feather and decorative pins (like the one that
was a tiny bottle of booze with the words “Liquor is Quicker” on it), my crepe
soled chukka boots and headed for “da club,” country style.
My "Moose River" hat looked like this, except it was adorned with hat pins like these...
And I went out dancin' in a pair of these....
I got to Midnight
Rodeo and found the place packed. I
ordered up a beer from the bar and headed for the dance floor. I thought I’d just hang out and watch for a
bit.
The most danceable
country tunes of the day were blaring to a huge, crammed dance floor.
The thing that hit
me was these people knew how to dance.
This was dancing like I’d never seen before…it beat the hell out of
dancing at a hillbilly honky-tonk or bar dance back east in the mountains.
I didn’t know what
they called this dancing but it sure wasn’t like what I called “The Hillbilly
Shuffle.” The Hillbilly Shuffle was
basically a guy and a girl leaning into each other and moving around the dance
floor. Nope, there was fancy footwork
going on on this dance floor in Albuquerque.
I finished my beer
and made my move to do some dancing.
“You wanna dance?” I
asked a woman who looked about as old as me.
“Sure,” said the
blonde, and off we merged into the mass of humanity that was dancing round and
round.
Soon we were on the
other side of the dance floor and my partner was setting me free.
“You cain’t dance
for shit,” she said smiling, and she was gone.
“But…but,” I was
talking to no one.
She was doing that
fancy footwork dance and I was doing a mismatched Hillbilly Shuffle.
I scanned the room
again for another prospect.
“I’ve been told I
can’t dance for shit,” I said to my new prospect, a brunette. “I was hoping you might give me some
pointers.”
The brunette looked
me up and down.
“I ain’t got time,”
she said and with that she walked off.
I found another
prospect we walked out on the dance floor…she did her fancy footwork and me my
Hillbilly Shuffle and she shuffled me right over to the other side of the room
and let me go.
“YOU CAN’T DANCE FOR
SHIT,” came a voice, an older one that came with a cackling laugh.
I looked around.
There was an old
woman with a beer and a cigarette.
She was motioning me
over to her table with her cigarette hand.
“GET YOUR ASS OVER
HERE, BOY,” she yelled.
The old woman’s
voice made me flash back to living with my grandmother 25 years earlier, her
calling me in for supper.
I made my way over
to the woman’s table. She leaned over,
pulled out the chair next to her and patted the seat cushion with her hand
holding the cigarette. A little bit of
ash fell off the tip on the seat vinyl.
“SIT DOWN,” she
yelled over the music.
I dutifully sat down
next to her.
“I’ve been watching
you, boy,” she said while chuckling. She
was probably a good 30 years older than me.
“Jesus Christ, where the hell are you from?”
“Back east, back in
the mountains,” I said with a measure of pride.
“Damn,” she said, “I
shoulda guessed. I wasn’t far off. I was going to say eastern Kentucky.”
“Yeah,” I said,
“That was about 100 miles west of me.”
“You come in here
with that damn hillbilly hat and those pussy shoes.”
“Pussy shoes?”
“Who the hell wears
chukka boots anymore? Damn. Boy,” she said pointing at the dance floor
with her fingers and her dwindling cigarette, “Look at what everyone’s wearing
out there….”
I looked out on the
dance floor.
“Cowboy boots,” I
said.
“No, not cowboy
boots, BOOTS,” she looked me in the eyes.
“You go around calling a hat a ‘cowboy hat’ and your boots ‘cowboy
boots’ folks around here gonna KNOW you’re from back east.”
I smiled and nodded.
“Lose that damn hat
next time you come here,” she said, “Save it for when you’re canoeing in
Minnesota. Go out and get you some
ropers and a decent hat.”
“Ropers?” I asked.
“Boots good for
dancin’,” she said.
“What is that
dancin’?” I asked pointing at the dance floor.
“Two step,” she
said, taking a drag on a newly lit cigarette.
“What the hell is that dancin’ you’re doin’?”
“Hillbilly shuffle,
I always called it,” I said. I looked
out on the dance floor and spotted this one woman who was light on her feet and
doing a kind of dance/hopping around the floor.
I pointed, “What’s that dancing?”
“Oh hell, I bet if
you asked her it’d probably turn out she’s up here from Las Cruces. They dance fancy down there.”
The old woman took a
drag off her cigarette.
“Boy, if you’re
gonna get a girl here you damn well better know how to two-step. C’mon…” she said as she stood and stubbed out
her smoke, “I’m gonna give you a dance lesson.”
We held our hands
like dance partners do.
“NOW WATCH MY FEET,”
she yelled over the music, “SEE? DO
THIS…STEP, TOUCH, STEP, TOUCH, WALK WALK AND REPEAT.”
“STEP TOUCH, STEP
TOUCH, WALK WALK,” I said loudly, “STEP TOUCH, STEP TOUCH, WALK WALK…”
“LOOKIT THAT,” said
the old woman, “LIKE A DUCK TO WATER.”
She and I were
making our way around the dance floor with me looking like I knew what I was
doing.
We made our way back
to the table.
“Well,” I said, “I
sure appreciate your help. What’s your
name?”
“I’m Sally,” she
said, “I’m a retired hooker.”
I my eyes opened
wide.
“Ha ha ha,” said
Sally. “You shoulda suspected something,
not many women talk straight like me.”
“Well,” I said, “I
just thought you were a teacher or something.”
“I thought I
recognized a hillbilly when I saw one,” Sally said. “I grew up in western North Carolina in the
Smokies. Came out west and made a lot of
money ‘getting acquainted’ over the years with the boys at the air
bases…Kirtland, Holloman. I come here
from time to time for the atmosphere.”
I nodded.
“Now tomorrow you
get out and go get you some boots and don’t get no square-toed boots, dead
giveaway you’re an easterner,” said Sally, “And get you a good hat.”
Sally smiled and
patted me on the back.
I made my way
through the crowd and headed for the door.
I was done with my
night on the town.
Besides, I couldn’t
dance for shit.
E P I L O G U E
I didn’t go back to
Midnight Rodeo. It’s not that I didn’t
like the place, it’s just that it was populated by people who just weren’t my
“tribe.” So much importance put on
dancing just right wasn’t my cup of tea.
Besides, when I
tried dancing the two-step again I had trouble paying attention to my dance
partner while I was watching my feet and saying, “step touch, step touch, walk
walk…” in my head.
I did find an
enclave of my “tribe” in the mountains beyond the Sandia Mountains. Back at the end of the ‘80’s the village of
Madrid was home to a funky bar that had Bluegrass music on Saturdays. I would make the drive to Madrid, kick back
and listen to the tunes then mosey on back to Albuquerque.
The construction job
ended. I got picked up for a part-time
gig at a pop music radio station but my heart was hoping for a job that never
came at the city’s big Country station.
Then one night I
picked up a radio station on the AM band blasting 50,000 watts of Country music
joy out of Roswell…
…and knew where I
belonged.
-30-
Ain't no pins or feathers in my hat these days.....